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Geoff Capes is 74

My top tip, for what it's worth, remove the floor and seat box, then using a motor crane, with the adjustable balance attachment, then it's easy peasy, took me 8 minutes last time, from dragging the boxes under the car til it was popped into place. I have tagged before for hours of uncomfortable struggling under the car. Much easier and more pleasant to remove seat box and floor.

I used a gantry device fabricated out of 40x40 shs, that sat inside the vehicle on the floor either side of and across the tunnel. It had about half a metre of 16mm "all thread" rod with a nut sitting atop a thrust bearing through the gantry. End of the rod was welded a couple of chain links that attatched to the top of the gearbox/transfer case unit at the single balance point. The whole unit was lowered and raised by loosening or tightening the nut on the threaded rod, no lifting no struggling under the vehicle and precise steady positioning for removal/ replacement. This device made it easy to do Disco tranny's and clutches working on my own. But overall it was still a bugger of a job Mike.

þú ert besta land rover rásin á youtube

I've done my ZF4 & LT230 a few times using the 8 ton long reach trolley jack and a couple of ratchet straps, still not easy but lets the jack and straps take the strain all the while I'm balancing on the curb, get the missus to pump the handle as there's nothing worse than having to crawl out from underneath to add one pump on the jack, plus when you do start doing the nuts n bolts up she can get the kettle on.

Had to take out my Land Cruiser's auto box with transfer case on the driveway. Not sure what is was in Kilo's but in old money it was f*cking heavy. I borrowed my neighbours motorbike lift. It was a flat steel plate that you could wind up and down with it's scissor jack. That with a ratchet strap around the lift and gearbox really helped.

Always check the bush in the end of the crankshaft!!!!! Don't want to fit this twice!

Ciekawsze niż piłka nożna

I dropped the transfer box out of my 200 TDI discovery to replace a 30 pence O ring on the what you refer to as the sleeved bush as it was leaking oil and really bugging me .took it to a garage were I bought the vehicle from originally and all they did was cover every thing in silicone. Removing the transfer box was done outside in December without any lifting equipment apart from a scissor Jack and lots of grunting and swearing.

Nice T-Shirt that man!!! 😂

You're so right Mike, a real bugger to set up with the transmission in the vehicle. You need "double cardan" joints in your arms.

Hi Mike got my package and stuck you on the front of my new tool trolley, I get through a lot of elbow grease and it still aches :)

Is that lithium grease you are using Mike ? I wondered about its uses , pros and cons , on vehicles . Could you advise please ? Recently I discovered Silicon grease , not sealant , though it is good for sealing electrics .... another thing for a video . Well hell lets go all out and mention ceramic grease . Sounds Fred Flintstone garage gear eh ! Maybe that's for them ceramic brakes all LandRovers dont actually have and therefore not worth a mention at all anyway . Loved the video .

Love your channel. Greeting from Perth, Australia

If the exhaust valve guide is loose, and the crack is at that valve, and on the exhaust stroke, coolant could be sucked by the guide and out the exhaust manifold

Hey Mike, you do some awesome videos which are great to watch, I also have one of your special clutch arms for when I replace my clutch which rocked up to the UK in very quickly, Thanks, now my question................what sealant did you use on the crank seal? was it the Loctite SI 5980 like I've seen you use on other things or VICTOR-REINZ REINZOSIL which I'm sure I read somewhere or did you use something else? do tell please Mike

Hello Mike Next time you need to part off a piece of case hardened spindle or suchlike item cover your lathe beds, and use an angle grinder with a thin abrasive cut off disk on the spinning job, only grind through the case hardening, complete the partition with a parting off tool.

That was a good one! Does the genuine needs soldering as well you think or not?

The trick to getting the brushes onto the commutator that is given the the Massey Ferguson 35 manual is to retract the brushes and lean the end of the springs against the side of the brushes. Then, when the dynamo is assembled you use a screwdriver to push the brushes towards the commutator and the springs will slide off the side of the brushes and adopt their correct position. BTW - if you have a source of the springs I would love to know. The 61 year old springs in my 35x are perhaps reaching the end of their life. Lucas stuff doesn't last 5 minutes 😀

What do you expect, they have never been a quality item

Lots of great tips as usual 👍🏼

been checkin up on a few subs thinking they`ve disappeared and here you are with a stick of green gold bullion wow what a beauty tactfully kept and looks fantastic wish i could give it the home it requires but alas i cant but hope you have it advertised in the world wish you the best of luck with its sale

You'll be getting a name for yourself as the gearbox man Mike. I think it suits you to do them rather than rolling around underneath Defenders. I managed to get my Land Cruiser stuck in low range. Fiddled around all yesterday with the linkages but ended up having to go the the Chippy at 25mph at 3000rpm. No centre diff on mine, so the transmission wind up was naughty. Back in high range now, thank god.

Very good information, Mike but on my 2A I never liked the look of the wiper system so I converted it by to 2 individual wiper motors, mounted on the windshield frame like my old series 2 had. No snow in Florida so ice and snow. Were not an issue for me and the individual motors handled most of the rain OK if I needed more speed, I just operated it by hand and if that didn’t work, it was raining too hard to be driving Your video was very good and it’s very good to know the differences in that wiper system it’s important that this information gets passed on so it doesn’t become lost knowledge. Thanks again ciao.

Hi Mike, yes this does work on the series engines and the seals that I had then were rubber, they just pushed down over the guide But if you had new valve guides And new valves and new seals they worked OK

The end cylinders can dissipate heat easier than the center cylinders. The center cylinders are a heat bank heat sink whatever term people want to use but the center cylinders just have to sit there in the heat that has no place to go.

Can easily run into issues with o-ring cross sections that aren't quite right for the task, as I'm sure JP will be able to confirm. When you consider the common o-ring cross sections that are all very close to what you're working with, Mike: Common metric ISO and/or German DIN = 2.5mm Common Swedish = 2.4mm Common Japanese = 2.7mm And then for a final twist: The common imperial American equivalent converted to metric is basically 2.62mm You could easily have a hard time knowing what the hell you might receive in a parts kit, and even harder to know where the parts in the kit were sourced from🤣

Super good information I have to do some out rigger work on my series 2A and all this information transfers directly thanks again ciao

I like your videos as always, and I suppose all your followers sending reminders but parts the closely resemble other parts. I always tag them so there’s no confusion later on. Your videos are great. Keep them coming toose.

So happy to see companies like VEVOR reaching out to creators like you. Although I'm very certain your channel will continue to grow with subscribers, I think you're very much in the sweet spot for companies to send you products. Especially because you are willing to test/fiddle/consider new solutions to common issues. Thanks for what you do in the community. As someone who is barely starting to make content, I can appreciate just how difficult it can be. Your clutch kit is super smooth, by the way. A few days ago I got the entire engine/trans/xfer kit into my 130. Finishing up the ancillaries now and hopefully I'll have it all good to go within the next few days.

I know it is abit apart but still parts restoration. Do you think it is possible to restorer the door hinges on on my 90? When I remove the door , they are a bit wobbly in the pins . I know I can buy new , but I believe restored OEM is better than new after marked , IF it is possible to restore. I was thinking about drilling the pin out and replace with a bigger pin. Have you ever don any thoughts on this?

Hi Mike, hope it’s ok to ask a random question here has I don’t know where else to. I recently bought a 1980 series 3 88” with a non turbo 200tdi conversion, everything else original. How big of a job is it to convert to lt77 gearbox etc? Will I need to replace mounts, alter prop etc etc or is it a straight swap? Thanks, Jon.

Great find! Cheers for sharing

cant believe it - never could imagine this one

😂😂

Glad you were able to find the problem relatively easy Mike. I had the problem you described once, whilst putting a transfer case back, a set screw just a fraction too long, that locked up the intermediate gear. Fortunately I found it before closing it all up and running the box.

By the time you kick the bucket you'll know it all..... 😁👍🇮🇪

See ya later

Hello Mike, I'm Dieter from Germany. This is also a very informative video for me. I am the owner of a Jaguar E-Type Series 2 and bought the same transmission five or six years ago to change my Jag. from the automatic Borg Warner 8 to the five-speed transmission to reduce the speed level in the XK engine. Jaguar has installed these boxes in the XJ 6 Sedan Series 3. That was in the early eighties. It is very rare in the XJ 6 Jag., a kind of blue Mauritius. Where could I get spare parts, seals, etc. if I need something? Best regard‘s, Dieter from Germany

😂 just swapped my drop arm...now steering wheel is off😂 WTF...

Bent shaft.

Got a Canadian version of this balancer 2 weeks ago and it was sold with a much sharper and narrower pin and needed no tweaks at all. Balanced 4 X 16" tires and only one was improved on the dynamic balancer (Snap-On). Always use a Y form to balance and split up the weights inside and outside to balance both sides of the tire. The outlier was only imbalanced on the outside surface so the Snap-On showed that the two weights needed to be joined on the outside face and not split up.

You need to mark the gears and see which one repeats the binding every 360deg rotation of that wheel, remembering they are all different sizes - that will tell you which gear to inspect and where the fault lays on it.

Tell tale marker paint will reveal all, glad you got the pump issue resolved, I was mulling over the bent cover idea but the oversized O-ring I never thought of, you kinda expect that to be correct as given, right think I'll pop over to your shop and give you some money ( stickers for my new tool trolley ) I might even buy an approved by Mike separating tool.

Use parker o lube 👌

king mike - you are so mean - let us all having sleepless night thinking on that tick when it hasnt done it before - it must be something you changed. i wouldn´t discard the shaft at once, since that has been changed. maybe dismantling it - put it in the parts washer again - especially the bearings - to discard any debries sticking to something. if it is still there it must be on one of the teeth sticking out good luck

I love these dilemmas.

That was a brand new 1.4 I got from ashcroft and that was a 1.2 before.

Mike you are great ! This oul pump thing is good to know . So the wall is not very solid of that pump housing. And the gearwheels.....do you have " Tuschierpaste" ? It is maybe called inking paste ?

It’s like you have one Gear tooth that’s deformed bent something like that and every time that tooth engages the other gears, it puts a load on the shaft. If you had other gears, you could substitute then then it might be easier to work out with the issue is .